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Thread: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

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    Super Toneologist Bfeeney's Avatar
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    Default CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    First off, I am VERY good handyman, and do things the right way. Hell, I've been working on cars AT MAJOR DEALERS for 10 years. I know what I'm doing. Hopefully that will filter out the pessimistic nay-sayers.

    I have a 24 fret 24.75" Explorer knock-off that drives me nuts. All the guitars I've had in the past were all 22 fret, so naturally I got use to it. Well this one with 24 is really f@cking me up! It throws off my orientation. I see on Stew-Mac that I can get a slotted fretboard for pretty cheap, I thought 'yeah, just change the fretboard'. Then I thought about the glue holding the board to the neck. Does anyone know anything about the glue manufacturers use for these? I don't want to go in guessing it's one kind and it turns out to be something totally different and I damage it. I'm not going to take it to a luthier and have him rape me on a simple job.
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    I'm not going to take it to a luthier and have him rape me on a simple job
    Stick to polishing cars on the showroom floor...

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    Major General GAS aleclee's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    What are you going to do with the extra 1/2" of fretboard? A 22 fret board is going to be shorter than a 24.
    Quote Originally Posted by LesStrat View Post
    make sure that you own the gear, not vice versa.

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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Quote Originally Posted by aleclee View Post
    What are you going to do with the extra 1/2" of fretboard? A 22 fret board is going to be shorter than a 24.
    This. That's your major issue.

    Woodworking is also waaaay different than anything you've dealt with in the auto industry. Just be mindful that wood is organic and shifts, so if you do move forward (which I would not), be prepared to deal with that, and read up a lot on how to do it right.
    - Gibson CS ES339 - Gibson J-45 - Gibson Les Paul Trad - Gibson J-200 Standard - Fender Hwy1 Strat - PRS Custom22 Soapbar - Takamine E-series Acoustic - Fender Blues Deluxe - Fender Excelsior

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    Super Toneologist Bfeeney's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    The car thing was just saying I'm good at this kind of stuff, not that it cars and wood are the same. I have modded guitars before successfully, that's not the issue. The question is the glue.
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Just grind it off with an angle grinder and then epoxy the new one on. Don't forget to wear a dust mask when grinding...

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    Glossless SlyFoxx's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Might you just remove the last two frets? Not the prettiest solution.

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    SmoothCriminalologist JOLLY's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    I would think that it would be just as cheap to sell the guitar and get one that you don't have to do such modifications to.

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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Quote Originally Posted by JOLLY View Post
    I would think that it would be just as cheap to sell the guitar and get one that you don't have to do such modifications to.
    +1

    As has already been mentioned, you're going to be left with a 22 fret neck with a gap at the end of the fretboard which is going to look wrong. I'd deal with the 24 frets (not really an issue from my perspective) or just sell it and buy a 22 fret guitar you dig.

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    Super Toneologist Bfeeney's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Quote Originally Posted by JOLLY View Post
    I would think that it would be just as cheap to sell the guitar and get one that you don't have to do such modifications to.
    Well I'm a lefty, how many lefty Explorer's have you seen that aren't outragiously expensive (seen the Dean's and don't like the heads). I took what I could get.

    I could get a custom neck done at Warmoth for $160. Would that mess up the scale if I replace a 24 with a 22?
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Quote Originally Posted by JOLLY View Post
    I would think that it would be just as cheap to sell the guitar and get one that you don't have to do such modifications to.
    +1 why reinvent the wheel just buy the right wheel,
    I need no stinkin signatures

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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Quote Originally Posted by Bfeeney View Post
    I could get a custom neck done at Warmoth for $160. Would that mess up the scale if I replace a 24 with a 22?
    Yes. It probably wouldn't intonate correctly.
    Quote Originally Posted by LesStrat View Post
    make sure that you own the gear, not vice versa.

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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    I'm a lefty too, so I feel your pain.

    Personally I'd give the current explorer the spanish archer (el bow) and go for a Warmoth body and neck, that way you'd know they'll play well together. If you've been in the auto industry for a while you've probably played with an air spraygun before with lacquer finishes. Just finish the body and neck with some stain and clear....

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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Quote Originally Posted by Bfeeney View Post
    First off, I am VERY good handyman, and do things the right way. Hell, I've been working on cars AT MAJOR DEALERS for 10 years. I know what I'm doing. Hopefully that will filter out the pessimistic nay-sayers.

    I have a 24 fret 24.75" Explorer knock-off that drives me nuts. All the guitars I've had in the past were all 22 fret, so naturally I got use to it. Well this one with 24 is really f@cking me up! It throws off my orientation. I see on Stew-Mac that I can get a slotted fretboard for pretty cheap, I thought 'yeah, just change the fretboard'. Then I thought about the glue holding the board to the neck. Does anyone know anything about the glue manufacturers use for these? I don't want to go in guessing it's one kind and it turns out to be something totally different and I damage it. I'm not going to take it to a luthier and have him rape me on a simple job.


    You will get used to it in time. Id look at it as an opportunity to have something thats different.

    Otherwise, if its just not going to cut it, if I were you, id head on over to the guitar center or sam ash on morse road and trade that one in on something of the 22 fret variety.

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    Super Toneologist Bfeeney's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexR View Post
    I'm a lefty too, so I feel your pain.

    Personally I'd give the current explorer the spanish archer (el bow) and go for a Warmoth body and neck, that way you'd know they'll play well together. If you've been in the auto industry for a while you've probably played with an air spraygun before with lacquer finishes. Just finish the body and neck with some stain and clear....
    I've thought about it. Back in he day I cringed because it would end up being a $700-$900 project, but I guess now I only have to get the body and neck. And yes I've got some paint time in, there is a few pics floating around the posts.
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    Super Toneologist Bfeeney's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Quote Originally Posted by Ball&Chain View Post
    You will get used to it in time. Id look at it as an opportunity to have something thats different.

    Otherwise, if its just not going to cut it, if I were you, id head on over to the guitar center or sam ash on morse road and trade that one in on something of the 22 fret variety.
    I spent $160 on it NEW, I would spend more in gas to get to Morse Rd. than they would give me for it!
    LTD M-50 W/ AHB-1 Blackouts.
    Douglas Rhoads W/ GFS Crunchy Rails
    Douglas Thinline W/ GFS Pro
    Epi 100 W/JB-'59
    Soloist W/SD-Super 2
    SX Strat T.O.M.
    Blackstar HT5-H.
    Custom 112 cab W/G12 75T.

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    Mojo's Minions ItsaBass's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    I can think of a few options:

    1. If the fretboard overhangs the butt end of the neck, chop off the overhang.
    2. Remove the two extra frets and fill the slots.
    3. File down the extra frets to almost nothing.
    4. Color them black with a Sharpie so they don't disorient you.

    The one thing I'd probably not do is replace the fretboard on a knockoff guitar...unless I simply wanted to learn how to do it.

    Can you post a pic of the end of the neck?
    Quote Originally Posted by LesStrat View Post
    Yogi Berra was correct.
    Quote Originally Posted by JOLLY View Post
    I do a few chord things, some crappy lead stuff, and then some rhythm stuff.

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    Super Toneologist Ball&Chain's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Its probably really similar to this.



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    Super Toneologist Bfeeney's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Yep, flip it around to a lefty. Something else I also found I don't like about 24 frets is the pickups are closer together. I find myself hitting my pick on the neck pickup when I am PMing. For $160 I shouldn't complain, it's a cheap trial & error, now I know don't get 24 frets and look at the spacing between the pups.
    LTD M-50 W/ AHB-1 Blackouts.
    Douglas Rhoads W/ GFS Crunchy Rails
    Douglas Thinline W/ GFS Pro
    Epi 100 W/JB-'59
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    SX Strat T.O.M.
    Blackstar HT5-H.
    Custom 112 cab W/G12 75T.

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    Mr. Cellophane Aceman's Avatar
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    Default Re: CHANGING FRETBOARDS

    Well, I don't know, but I'm guessing:

    1. Heat the board until it comes off, other wise it will need grinding/sanding.
    - No idea how to heat it like that
    - Sounds dangerous to paint and neck warpage
    - grinding could be tragic as well if too much gets sanded
    - still need to clean up the wood / glue

    2. I would suspect that IF the wood is clean, Elmo's wood glue and some C clamps
    - Wood needs to be good and clean/pourous
    - Glue applied well (even, quickly, not too much)
    - clamps with lots of pressure for a week? Month?

    It's one of those things that $160...might be an AWESOME skill to have.

    Other factors:
    Board too think - still have to grind
    Board too wide/thin - thin is fail. wide needs sanding to match body
    Adding frets...whole other hoo-haa

    If you do it, please document in pics and words.

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